How to Change a Miter Saw Blade | Dewalt
This is shown for the 12" DeWalt miter saw but is similar with any miter saw you have.
Conveniently the DeWalt saw provides the screw and socket needed to change the blade. It is on the left part of the saw behind the fence.
The first step is to unplug the saw.
Then you need to move the blade guard out of the way. This involves loosening this screw.
You need to be able to access this Reverse-Thread bolt that hold the blade in. You can see that after the screw is loose, the guard can be moved up and have access to the bolt.
You also must push in the blade lock button so that the blade doesn't spin while you try to loosen it.
Here you can see that the loosened screw can hold the blade guard up and won't fall down. Remember the bolt is reverse thread. Just hold in the lock button and remove the bolt and collar. When reinstalling the blade, remember that the teeth curl down over the front. Video Transcript: so the only tool you need to change the blade on the DeWalt miter saw is actually located right here with the tool that's behind the rest it's a two-in-one socket and star bit it's step one is to unplug it make sure you unplug the tool you don't want to be working on it next time we hit it step two is to lift the blade guard up and out of the way it should lock you can get a little pushing it'll lock in place like that now you all you have to do is first undo this one screw which will allow you to push the blade guard out of the way and loosen the blade so use the star bit end so if you loosen that nut up about 1/2 inch this blade even if it falls it will hit on that screw and it won't come down next you lift the blade guard in the middle there's the metal plate and you push that up and out of the way and that gives you access to the center nut here you can see the nut that's loosened up enough so it hits the blade guard and stops it from falling down then you take this metal plate push it up out of the way and gives you access to that knife so now with the blade guard out of the way you push in on the other side there's a black button right under the trigger rotate the blade till it locks in like that and now the blades locked in and written right here on the side it says loosen with an arrow going in the other direction it's a reverse the red nut so you have the blade lock use the socket end and you rotate it reverse the red bull the arbor and the blade comes right off so here's the new blade I'm putting on it's actually an 8 12-inch blade and when this is off I'm going to sharpen it to get a little dull so when putting on the new blade make sure you have the rotation correctly it says here rotation and actually the the writing on this one is on the outside and the teeth cut down the writing on this new blade is actually on the other side and you want the teeth cutting downward and I'm the newly installed blade make sure the teeth are pointing down because that's the rotation of the cut put the armor back on and then tighten the nut remember it's the opposite direction you're actually loosening it when you get it snug DUP push in the black button again to lock the blade and you might notice when you push in the button the blade actually rotates a little but the arbor is locked you're not actually locking the blade you're lacking this Arbor and then it is loosened to tighten now you can lower the metal blade guard tighten it up and you're all set ready to cut via Blogger http://bit.ly/2Yc5hHF June 24, 2019 at 03:41PM
Extension Cord Reel - Easy Build Plans
I am continuously trying to improve my basement shop. Whether it's with new tools: -table saw -miter saw -homemade disc sander Or whether it's with things i build to help organize: -nail gun case -organizer cart The next thing that i've noticed to be a problem is a convenient extension cord. In the past every time i needed to plug something in i had to take down the orange extension cord from the peg board, unwind it, and plug it in. Then when i'm done with the tool i need to rewrap it and hang it on the board. It was a pain. Last Christmas i got an extension cord that attaches to the ceiling in the garage. It's spring loaded and will automatically reel back up into its housing. I use it all the time in the garage. The one in the garage cost around $40 and is quite big. I didn't really feel like buying one and if i hung that from the ceiling in the basement i would constantly be hitting my head on it. I wasn't 100% sure where i even wanted to mount it in the basement. The ceiling was convenient in the garage, but perhaps on the wall or under the workbench would be better for the basement. So i started with some sketches on paper as usual. I quickly realized that the complicated part of the reel is winding up a cord and not having the plugged in end become all twisted. I'm guessing that with the store bought extension cord reels there is some sort of fancy roller bearing mechanism that can rotate without becoming twisted. Eventually i came up with a design that involved the plugged in end of the cord to come out the center of the reel. I still wasn't super comfortable with the design, but i thought it would work well enough. I decided to make the 'wheels' out of OSB, a material that i have used a lot recently. I built the nail gun case and cart organizer out of that type of wood. For the spinning/rotor part of the reel i used something i just had lying around, the old hub from my car. A week earlier i replaced one of the rear hubs off my Pontiac Grand Prix. The old one wasn't broken, just the ABS sensor was cracked. It was a little overkill but i thought it would work. If it can hold up 1/4 of a 2000 lb car, it should be able to hold up a 4 lb extension cord. For the center of the reel i wanted to use a short piece of PVC pipe. A 3" diameter pipe was perfect, and i was able to drill a large hole in it for the extension cord to pass through. The only difficult part was in how i was going to attach it to the wood. But here's all the materials i needed set out. I also wanted to use a scrap piece of 2"x6" pine for the mount. Something that i could bolt to the hub and screw to whatever i was going to hang it off of. I started by cutting out the 2 circular ends of the reel. Also i decided that cutting some holes in the ends would be functional for a couple of reasons. Mainly it would provide a type of handle for me to spin the reel. I couldn't really attach a handle, your arm would hit the end of the extension cord coming out of the center of the reel. But by adding holes it gave me something to grab onto. Mount PVC to wood with mechanical rivets. I rounded over the wheels and the cut-out holes with the router. Just a simple round-over bit to remove the sharp edges. Next i measured, marked and drilled out the holes to attach the hub. At this point i still wasn't sure how i was going to attach the PVC center piece to the wood ends. Ultimately i decided to make some small metal 90degree brackets and rivet them together. I'm still not happy with how that part turned out, but i still have no better way of connecting them. In order for the hub to fit flush with the 2x6 i had to cut out a circular section. Then i drilled 4 holes to attach them together with bolts. With everything bolted together it seemed like it would work ok. Although the steel hub made it overly heavy. When i plugged it into the ceiling power strip it seemed like it would work fine. But as i started winding the cord onto the reel i realized that there might be a problem. The cord really started to become twisted at the plugged in end. I would have to leave plenty of slack at that end and hope that the constant twisting and untwisting wouldn't damage the wire. So i stood it back off the ceiling to do the finishing touches. I sanded everything down with the belt sander and palm sander. Then i put 2 coats of some old paint i had lying around and 2 coats of polyurethane. It was kind of obvious that i didn't need to make the reels that large. I probably could wrap 200 feet of extension cord on the thing. But i only needed around 20 feet. If i had to make another one i would have made the reels a lot smaller. Just another piece of the puzzle in making the shop easier to work in. Video Transcript: so something I made for my workshop a bunch of years ago and never really showed anybody how he made it is this is an extension cord reel and the reason I never really showed anybody how I did it was because I never felt like it was quite done it it works but it's not perfect it's good for a small shop not for a big one and I was looking for something that I could just reel out like in the garage I have a reel from the top that I cranked up and cranked down what's coming up with different ideas of pipes and wheel bearings and just last week I changed the rear hub on the back wheel of my car and this is the old one and it's spins pretty easily it's really heavy really heavy duty I have a quick sketch and I'm just gonna make it out of oh s bead particle board because that's what I have lying around and we'll see how it goes well the first step is determining how big to make the circle and this is just scrap I have lying around that's 16 inches so I'm think I'm gonna make it 15 and a half just so I have screw into that center hole and I can leave that bit right in there so I'm going to take a sharpie up and draw this circle it'll hold it right in place and this will be the 15 and a half inch circle nose close that I'm going to use all right there's a the layout lines that I did on the piece that will attach to the hub this die outer diameter is this here I'm gonna cut that out and I just kind of eyeballed right angles and drew this pizza shape with the lines here okay because I'm using such a large bit it's binding up a little but that gave me a hint on what I should be doing and that's drilling halfway through with one and because the bit sticks out a little bit the holes are on the other side so I can cut it from the backside and I won't get any tear out as you can see from these holes because I'm coming at it from both directions that's all the way through nice clean hole a bit and that's that and obviously so I don't have to remeasure redraw anything I'm just using a sharpie and tracing all the holes that I already drilled out it's the center section cut out and I just need to drill these holes and it will fit right over that now real quick way that I transferred the marks from here onto this board I took a big sharpie and I marked up the ends of these and I set it on there I lined it with that center hole and it took a hammer and when I hit it just gave faint impressions on here that I can mark for the holes to be drilled out and I got five of them alright I just got done cutting out the holes for the hub bolts I used a half inch bit and I had to do it on the drill because the drill press doesn't have enough of a reach I was going this will beat the back and how it will mount to the wall and then this piece would fit on the front okay here's the piece of PVC I just cut out it fits in the center of the hub I'm gonna mount this here and before I do that I have to drill a hole in the center of this PVC so that a cord can go through come out and come out the front because that's where I'm going to connect it it's not a great design I would have liked to somehow fit the cord out the back but with this hub there's nowhere to go and it has to come out of the center somewhere that way when you wind it up the inner part doesn't get tangled only the outer part winds up and just to knock down some of these sharp edges I'm using a roundover bit on the router I had cut out the wheels before I'm the inner piece with the hole in the middle where the court is gonna feed through and out the front but I wasn't sure how I was gonna attach the wood wheels to the PVC Center axle and I thought about it and I came up with just making a whole bunch of small little right angles out of steel and then riveting them to the wood and to the PVC I was thinking about making out rings and screwing it together and bolting it together this just seemed like the the most stable secure way and then on the back I bolted the back of the wheel axle to 2x6 which I will attach to the wall once again I'm going to feed the extension cord through the center aisle at the front that's where it's gonna plug in and I'll still be able to wind it up I ended up hanging it from the ceiling I'm just test fitting it right now I just have a couple bolts I'm gonna take it down and sand it and everything but one bit of a design flaw that I saw was that this Court is gonna get all twisted up because it is even though it's passing through it's gonna be spinning so I don't know how I'm gonna fix it you can see it's getting all twisted up here now it is working for you know I'm never gonna need to take out more than 2 or so but I'm gonna have to think about that so I'm happy with where it is on the ceiling it's high enough up I'm not gonna hit it but I'm gonna have to worry about this cord twisting out so far it's working pretty well I built it because the cheapest extension cord reel you can get is probably around 5 one at Harbor Freight the 2 footer it's like 5 isn't cheap but then again extension cords aren't that cheap hopefully you can get an old extension cord and use that the heart of this unit is an old car hub a wheel bearing right here out of an old car I changed it on my Grand Prix and I used this wheel bearing you don't need something this heavy duty but this is definitely robust enough to hold up 2 top of that this this is the mount that I mount to the joists and the reel itself is just OSB particle board and a piece of PVC pipe in the center now the real reason when I say it's not quite done it's not quite perfect I'm an extension cord really you have the one part of the cord that doesn't move and the other part that unwinds and somewhere in that unit there's a 36 swivel that allows electricity flow through but it doesn't tangle the court and that's the part I could never really get over and figure out so when I unroll this and it unrolls like this part of this court kind of tank goes up which is why this is only really good for about 2 have a 25 foot cord on here and that's all I really want to use because otherwise it's just going to tangle up you'll see when I mounted on the ceiling but at the center of this this is where the cord comes out of the middle I actually have a hole cut in this PVC pipe which is where this wire feeds through and you can see as I unwind it it's actually twisting this cord in the middle that's it over so to mount the PVC to the particle board I just used some metal tabs and I riveted them in and that's how it's fine and to transfer the court from the reel off the reel I drilled a hole in this PVC and it comes out here so it's still tangling up but hopefully in just one direction and it has I'm sure it's maybe shorten the life of the court but there's no real damage to it it's just twist it up a little so let's mount it to joists I'm gonna have you want to find a spot obviously in the shop that's in the middle that you can reach it I use this for the table saw it's a nice thick extension cord probably like 12 gauge so it's enough to handle a big tool I'm gonna mount it to a joist and then I'll show you how it winds up and it works so to mount it I took this bracket off just four bolts holding it on and I'm just using four screws now I can lift this up into place so here it is all mounted in place ready to go you can see the mount on the joists I bolted it down here and it's all wound up and to uh to use it you just pull the pull the cord down it unrolls and then to wind it up you just grab one of the handles and roll it up now you might be thinking where am I gonna plug it in well that's where that lightbulb and all of this comes into play I'm actually going to install an outlet box where that light is and move that down somewhere over here so I'm gonna have to drill through a bunch of these joists run a wire put in an outlet box so I'm going to do that next well it was just a couple seconds for you but it took me an hour a little bit more to replace that light with an outlet box and move the light down there but it's all hooked up now this is connected you can see this is the extension cord that comes out of the middle and when I pull it this gets all twisted up so when I pull the extension cord down this gets all twisted up and we have to have a spot for this to be loose and become twisted so you can have a hook or something it's always ready to go it's always plugged in it's out of the way when you don't need it I use it all the time I use it for my table saw which is in the middle of the room any jig side just pull it down use it wind it back up it's definitely great to have in a shop like this and it works great for a small shop we only need 5 1 at a time you don't need 5 of your garage door or something so if you have an old car hub or if you have a junkyard nearby you can use that if not you can use any small wheel bearing this isn't much weight but the hub is definitely I mean I think I could hang from this thing and it wouldn't go anywhere that's how solid the hub is so let me know what you think hopefully you like it let me know if you have an idea for how to get that swivel so I don't get that cord twisting up like this there's got to be some sort of swivel out there that will allow that I've never found it though so let me know what you think via Blogger http://bit.ly/2Y9AY4s June 24, 2019 at 02:43PM
Adjust Bandsaw | Drift, Resaw, Blade Guides, Tension, Sharpening
I own a small plastic 9" delta bandsaw. It has always been poor at cutting a straight line and forget about resawing.
Then i saw a video by Alex Snodgrass and decided to give the saw adjustments another try.
First thing was to sharpen the blade. I bought a cheap $9 rotary tool from Harbor Freight, and used the carbide disc to sharpen all of the teeth on the blade.
I feel like this made a huge difference, less cutting pressure was needed.
The next thing was to adjust the upper and lower blade guides. They should be close but not touching. The second big difference was the picture below. The blade doesn't need to be centered on the wheel...the gullet of the teeth need to be at the center and supported. Another view of the upper blade guides. The lower wheel doesn't matter. The blade just needs to be somewhere in the center. And again with the lower blade guides. Guides and bearing need to be close but not touching. Video Transcript: for years I had issues with this little Delta bad side never cut while I was always struggling with the cuts and I recently got it set up so it cuts perfectly on so let me show you how I set it up and the things I learned most were from YouTube by a guy named Alex Snodgrass it's probably one of the suggested videos over here it's 35 minutes long I suggest you watch it but here are the quick things that I learned and how I got this set up so before you do anything make sure it's unplugged so you can work on it without fear of hitting the switch there's just a few things you have to setup but the biggest thing the number one thing I learned was the blade on the wheel I was getting lots of drift it was always drifting off line when I was trying to resaw cuts and the biggest thing I learned from that video was you you Ness not necessarily want the blade in the center of the wheel you want the gullet of the teeth in the center of the wheel and his point was just because the blades in the center of the wheel the teeth might be unsupported and that's why you're getting drift on the blade so the setup I have now is the gullet of the teeth so where the teeth come to the point and then curl around that deep the deepest part of that curl should be in the center of the wheel I think that made the biggest difference so right here this is the top wheel and you can see that that blade is not centered but the gullet of the center the teeth are centered on the blade I used to have this blade shift that over way over to the left and now it's supported the teeth are supported and it cuts much better and you can see on the bottom that's totally different the teeth are off the front so I was always concerned about getting these two coplanar and getting them aligned he said as long as the on the top wheel the teeth the gullet of the teeth are centered on that wheel that's all you need and that has made the biggest difference the next thing I did was sharpen the blade I've been using an old dull blade so I went through I got a little the nine dollar sharpener from Harbor Freight and I just went through and touched the blade sharpen it up I think that made a big difference next the adjustments and this saw has the little allen wrench right there on the side you can remove this blade yard now the adjustments on the set the two side adjustments typically there's a type of friction material or a little two bearings this has the little friction blocks on the side they want to be just not touching maybe a sixteenth of an inch they're just there in case the blade gets off track so not a huge amount of adjustment on the top or bottom of the side adjustment adjusters that's not very critical on the back there's a wheel bearing on the back of the blade that he said take take a lot of time adjusting that it shouldn't be touching it should be as close as you can get it without touching so you don't need an eighth of an inch sixteenth of an inch as close as you can get that back wheel without touching that's where you set it on the top and the bottom so here are the guides and I've tried to get this as close as I can without touching the blade this back guide and on the front these don't have to be exact just as close to supporting the blade as you can and the last thing he said was tensioning of the blade no some people say oh you should pluck it and hear a note should be this note it should be that note his suggestion was just tap it with your finger on the side and it should deflect an eighth of an inch so it doesn't matter how big your saw blade is what type of blade it is then we'll just tap it on the side thanks about here you just tap it real lightly and it should deflect an eighth of an inch and that's how you get the tension and here's what he meant when he said adjusting you're just tapping the side of the blade and it should deflect an eighth of an inch it doesn't matter what size blade you have what's I saw you have just tap it on the side and it should deflect an eighth of an inch so those things sharpening the blade centering the the gullet on the wheel the adjusters on the blade guides and the tension this is I was cutting it better than it ever has and I think the main thing though that I learned was getting that the blade centered getting the gullet centered and critically on the top you're not concerned about the bottom really you don't care about the bottom it doesn't have they don't have to be coplanar they don't have to be aligned as long as you are centered on the gullet on the top so it's actually off the the teeth are a little bit off the wheel on the bottom so it's cutting great because I'm a top here it's in the center the teeth are supported and they're not flexing offline so those are the things I learned after you watch this video I suggest watching his video over here on the left it's 35 minutes but it's super good and he tells you tons of ton of stuff about bandsaw and cutting but I hope this helped I hope this was a quick lesson on getting rid of drift and getting it cuts on a bandsaw even a cheap bone like this via Blogger http://bit.ly/2KxKknz June 24, 2019 at 01:44PM
Extension Cord Holders
Extension Cord Holder
Simple hinged extension cord holder Thought i might as well make several for the extension cords i have Here's an example of a single board extension cord holder. These are ok, but take time to unwind and make pinch points at the ends. Another 1-piece design. This was a string holder i made for my kite string. This did work well because the idea is to slowly let out the line. The initial setup so i could see what size board would fit on the scrap plywood i had. After the board was cut out, i rounded the edges over. The first test of wrapping the cord. The circle cut-outs are nice for hanging and securing the cord through. All of the cords wound up. And quickly removed from the screw-hing ends. Another view. Compact design. One thing i would have changed was instead of using a drywall screw, used something else stronger and won't come loose. And here they are hanging on the ceiling joists in the workshop. Transcript from Video: I just got done building these wooden extension cord holders and I wanted to explain why I think they're better than the typical ones out there so most of the time if you're going to build a wood extension cord holder you just take a piece of plywood cut a couple of use in it and you just wrap the cord around it you might have a handle on the side there's two things wrong with that one is you're making a pinch point with the cord because you're wrapping it around that tight radius and two when you want to get two extension cord off the holder you have to unwrap the whole thing wrap it back off the holder and with these it solves two of those problems one is the tight radius I put a it's just a piece of plywood a couple holes in it to hang it up and hold the cords off the back and 2x4 that I cut an arc and that will make sure that there's not a tight radius where it can wear the cord down when it's being held on there and that's the real trick I can swivel this MDF down and pull the whole extension cord off in one thing I don't have to unwrap the whole thing so again it's on there but I can get it off in one second by just pulling it right off the piece of wood in the front swivels out of the way and I can get the whole cord off instead of unwrapping the whole thing like you traditionally would I'm just a piece of plywood so it's nothing revolutionary but it's just a lot easier than having to go through wrapping it and you're not making tight pitch points on the cord when you're wrapping it around a piece of plywood so again it was free it took about an hour to make four of these and the holes in here I could put the ends of the extension cord through it and then I have tools top and bottom I can hang it up on my ceiling up and out of the way so it's a nice little compact convenient extension cord holder easy to make easy to use you can swivel them out of the way get the cords right off to seconds and it seems to work really well so I'll put some dimensions up if you want to build yourself but really whatever works for you whatever sides anything you want to store up on the wall they're flat on the back again not like a traditional rap where you have have to make a handle or something these are nice and flat you can store them on the wall up and out of the way so hope you like them Thanks you well I hope you liked the video you just watched if you did feel free to subscribe by clicking the button on this side you can also check out all the videos I've done the playlist from things I've built things I've fixed home repair 3d printing and on this side you can check out a recommended video similar to the one you just watched and as always down in the description I'll put a link to my blog which has more pictures and more information about the video you just watched thanks via Blogger http://bit.ly/2Nc1hG3 June 24, 2019 at 01:35PM
Stud Wall Shelves - Built In
Built in Shelves - Stud Wall
This was a back closet room that was framed up for a sauna in our basement. As you can see, i have lots of junk in my workshop that needs a place to go. So i decided to see if i could leave the stud wall in place and add shelves to it. By using 2x3's and 2x2's i was able to quickly and easily make a shelf centered on the studs. Something to point out here though...the studs were not set right against the wall. They were several inches off the wall to make room for the PVC sanitary pipe. Then using some scrap OSB the self was done. And 16" on center 2x4's means that a 13" milk crate will fit perfectly. A few more shelves and a few more milk crates and the amount of storage was starting to add up. I left a little room to be able to reach in and see what's in the crates. Time to build a lot more shelves. These are 2x4's ripped in half. And this is all the scrap wood i was thinking of using. Just measure up from the previous shelf, then transfer the mark to 3 sides of the 2x4. This is all of the support boards predrilled and ready to be screwed in. Coming along nicely. And the wall packed full. For the back wall i had to do something different. I didn't have room to center the board on the 2x4, i had to cantilever it to the front. So i cut some triangular pieces of OSB and screwed them in. But this allowed me to get a few more milk crates up and out of the way.
I'm really happy with how it turned out and how much storage space i got. I never thought i would be able to store everything and have it easily accessible.
The last thing will be to make labels, like in the last picture, with white hardboard and write down what's in all of the milk crates.
Transcript from Video:
if you're like me one of the biggest
issues you have been working in a
basement or garage workshop is running
out of space but we had this other room
and it was formed up I think for like a
sauna because it was all formed up but
there was walls and there's a drain in
it now we don't need a sauna room and I
was originally gonna tear down there
were there
studs put in here and I was originally
gonna tear them down and then I realized
16 inch on center studs means that a 13
inch wide milk crate fits perfectly in
there and I have a bunch of milk crates
don't I swear I got him but I have a
bunch of milk crates and they fit
perfect so I made some simple shelves
now I had some different ideas of how I
was gonna build the shelves originally I
was gonna have a BA a vertical board up
here and Ledger's or I was gonna run a
board all the way across and put the
shelves on that but then I realized if I
just ripped a 2x4 in half let me show
you if I just ripped a 2x4 in half and
cut it eight or ten inches long or
whatever two screws right into the stud
on either side and just took a piece of
OSB it couldn't be more simple
now these milk crates aren't that heavy
I have a couple heavy ones I have them
on the bottom sitting on the ground but
this holds it up no problem they fit
perfectly and when I first did this I
wasn't even sure if I was gonna use it
or liked it and I only built one row I
think I started with this row here and I
just built that and I'm like wow that
fits perfectly then I built another row
and I did a few more and then I went up
to the top so I didn't have any
intentions of building this whole room
the way I did I started with one or two
rows and then I realized hey I have all
these milk crates I could fill this
whole wall up and again I could have
made these shelves more complex with
boards coming off or a board running the
full width but I just felt this way was
simple and easy I could just cut a whole
bunch of these boards screw min and be
done I wouldn't have to mount anything
on the front or back or cantilevers and
anything to the ground this is just
simple and it works
eventually I'm going to make plates I
have all these pieces of white board I
cut and I'm going to mount them on the
front and label them kind of like how I
have I already have one labeled
electrical so I'll be able to come in
here and hopefully find everything I
need after I built it I was kind of
reminded back the old Mythbusters show
where they had that wall of big totes
and everything labeled it would be nice
to come in here and say okay wheels
right here here's all my wheels or come
in here again I have my electrical so it
would be nice to organize everything to
be able to find it that's the biggest
thing I found when we moved to the new
houses how many times I looked in
someone said oh I didn't even know I
have this I forgot I even had this weird
parts for a toilet I went out and bought
parts for a toilet Maria has already had
it I just couldn't find it so being able
to no one you haven't being able to find
it is huge let me show you a closer how
I built them all so here's a closer look
at the shelves themselves now one thing
to note is these studs were not right up
against the wall I had a lot of room in
the back which allowed me to Center the
boards on the middle if these boards
were right up against the back as like
these were I had to do shelves that
supports that stick out kind of
cantilevered shelves that held it up but
because these studs were off the wall
this distance I could Center that on
there and it was more balanced for when
I put the milk right on it's very solid
and stable if I had to have these
sticking out like this I would have had
to come up with a system more like this
where I cut triangles and they were
cantilever it out to support the shelves
but I was able to fit quite a few on
here some of these are different height
because there's a PVC plumbing pipe in
the back here that I had to cut out and
make room for I also have my reverse
osmosis water filter in there and
have all the filters so these are all
the filters for that in there more
filters filters but I've been able to
fit quite a few things in this little
room as long as they fit in the milk
crates I can fit them in here and I
could see okay here's all my electrical
stuff okay here's you know these will be
the hoses I'll be able to label
everything find everything I need
because as you can see right now it's a
complete mess okay here's all the stains
and rags old motors I kept the heavy
stuff on the bottom so I know this isn't
it's kind of a specific thing you're not
just gonna have a stud wall anywhere I'm
just like mine but I just found I didn't
know what I was gonna do how I'm gonna
go store all this stuff in that I
realize hey wait all the milk crates I
have fit perfectly in here just rip a
2x4 in half put some particle bore on it
and you have perfect shelving and
storage for all this stuff a room that's
packed full of stuff and it's not that
big of a room it's only six foot wide
but I'm able to keep a lot of stuff in
here at and it's not packed away it's
not like on this shelf here you know I
can't really even see what's back here I
can't find it I have to look for it here
everything is out in the open I can find
it immediately okay here's fittings and
cables and scrap wood and everything is
ready and I can get it immediately and
be able to see it and that's half the
battle is being able to remember what
you have and get to it when you need it
I hope it helps like I said organization
for me is a huge deal and especially
with this limited space that I have so I
hope it helps
via Blogger http://bit.ly/2IVS2EP June 14, 2019 at 03:06PM
Phone Automatically Switch to Best WiFi Signal
How to - Phone WiFi Switch
If you live in a house with multiple WiFi signals you may have the same problem as me. Your phone will not automatically switch to the strongest signal. Whatever it connects to first, it will stay with until it loses signal, even if it is getting a stronger signal from another WiFi point.
Above is my wireless modem, below is 1 of 2 wireless routers i have in another part of the house. It is possible to tell your phone to automatically switch, but it takes changing some settings and running an app. Two apps that will do this are WiFly and WiFi Manager. I already had WiFi Manager on my phone to monitor my WiFi signals. But in the settings there is an area where you can have it Switch to the Best Network. Automatically switching WiFi to the stronger signal. The other program, Wi-Fly, is dedicated to this switch. You tell it your network and it does the rest. HOWEVER... You must have your LOCATION turned ON. This will not work unless you have the Location turned on for your phone. A good thing is though that you only have to have your Battery Saving mode for Location turned on, not GPS. This will mean that it won't use as much battery power.
Transcript from Video:
well wouldn't it be great if the Wi-Fi
on your phone automatically switched to
the strongest signal at head well it
turns out it is possible and you might
already have the app on your phone to do
it now everybody's phone will
automatically switch Wi-Fi if you
completely lose signal and what I mean
by that is if you leave your house and
come back it connected to the strongest
signal that it recognizes and it
connects to it
but what I'm talking about is if you're
somebody like me that has two wireless
devices in your house I have a wireless
modem at one end and the wireless router
at the other end I could be right next
to the wireless router but if I'm
connected to that other device even
though I'm only getting one bar from
that and I could be getting full bars
from the other one it stays connected it
won't disconnect and connect to the
strongest signal but there is a way you
can do it so let me show you what you
need to do so the first thing is you
need an app that will automatically
switch to the strong signal and the two
bus that I found our Wi-Fi manager and
wife lie so let me first talk about the
app wife lie now this app is
specifically made for switching between
devices with the strongest signal and
all you have to do is set up your home
and all the devices you know and it will
automatically switch between them but
the trick is you must have location
turned on so if you go at the top of
your phone pull down in location which
is the thing you need to operate GPS
that must be on but the trick is you
don't need to have full GPS there's
three different settings for location
there's high accuracy which uses Wi-Fi
and GPS there's battery savings which
just uses the Wi-Fi and then there's
phone which uses just the GPS for this
to switch to the strongest signal you
can just have it on Wi-Fi the battery
savings mode which is good because I
don't like to leave my location turned
on I don't for multiple reasons one of
them it drains the battery but for
battery saving mode I'm fine with
leaving it on and you must have it on to
switch between devices
if you run Y fly or Wi-Fi manager and
you don't have location it will not
switch to the best signal now the other
app was something I already had on my
phone and it's called a Wi-Fi manager
and it looks like this now within that
Wi-Fi manager app if you click on the
three dots in the top right and you go
to settings and you scroll a little ways
down there's a best network category and
you can click on switch - best network
and you can check it every one minute
current level there's a whole bunch of
different settings you can do which is
just like Wi-Fi so you
actually have to download that other
program and this will also automatically
switch to the best signal I never knew
this had this feature and I never had it
turned on and I never would have had let
my location turned on but once I did it
started switching so this is great I can
walk to one end of the my house and it
will connect to the strongest signal
there I can go in the basement it will
connect to the strongest signal there so
it's not like before where I might be
sitting right next to a wireless device
and I'm getting one bar from the other
end of the house because I connected to
that one first now it will automatically
switch so a lot of people say your phone
won't do it and it won't on its own but
with these two things turning on your
location battery saving mode Wi-Fi mode
and running one of these two apps Wi-Fi
manager or wife lie and turning it on
and having it run and you will
automatically connect to the strongest
signal so I hope this helps I hope it
alleviates problems I know I've had and
I everything I read said you it couldn't
be done but it turns out it can and it
does work so let me know if this helps
via Blogger http://bit.ly/2XddbDy June 14, 2019 at 02:44PM
Culligan Water Filter Review - Whole House Filter
Culligan Water Filter Review and Change
We installed the Culligan 4.5x10 inch whole house filter for all the water entering our house. Actually we have 4 filters, 2 of them being this kind. In the two Culligan filters i have installed a 20 micron and 5 micron filter. They work very well at removing the iron/rust. They work so well that the 20 micron filter (left) has to be changed monthly. After shutting off the water valves, pushing the red button on top of the filter to drain the water, the clear casing can be unscrewed and the old filter removed. Here you can see how much rust we have in our water. It goes from white to brown in a month.
Before installing the new filter it's important to add food-safe lubricant to the O-ring. Otherwise there can be leaks.
Overall this is a great water filter for around $60. It is well built, handles a large amount of water flow, and the clear housing lets you see when the filter needs to be changed. I'm really glad i went with this one over the $25 DuPont filter.
Transcript from Video:
so today I wanted to go over this
culligan water filter why I bought this
particular one and how to change the
actual filter cartridge now this is a
culligan WH - HD 2
memorable name but there's a couple
reasons why I bought it
I like the size of this cartridge it's
for a ten by four and a half cartridge
that looks like this um another popular
filter you could have bought is I think
it's made by DuPont it's blue it's a
little bit cheaper but I really like
this one this was $5
ones 2
and as you can see we have rust in our
water and I like to be able to see when
I need to change your filter this one
looks pretty good this one's ready to be
changed real quickly the filter system I
set up I did a video on it earlier real
quickly the water system we have set up
here we have a well and we have arsenic
in our water a small amount but this
will not get rid of the arsenic we need
a reverse osmosis filter to get rid of
that but we also have some other
particles including an iron which turns
to rust as you can see here I have a 1
a 5 filter that out
these two are the iSpring filters that
are blow offs you just open the valve
and they blow out right off now as far
as these filter units themselves they're
a lot bigger than I thought they were
gonna be when I bought them and they're
really nice and sturdy I thought this
was gonna be a thin plastic or this was
gonna be kind of cheap plastic it's
pretty well built it's nice and solid
I'm not worried about it breaking once
minor concern was where you're putting
the fittings in you're screwing the
brass fittings in are plastic it's not
super reliable looking but I haven't had
any issues so far but they're definitely
well-built so today you can see this one
is full of rust this is where I have a
2 up I'm gonna change it our iron in our
house is really bad this has been not
quite two months and it's gotten to this
point so because of that you don't just
buy one filter you have to buy a whole
bunch
to get a good deal if you buy one of
these filters you can get them for 1
2 it averages out to under $7 a filter
again these can use any 1
a half inch diameter filter there's a
whole bunch there's the accordion style
filter there's ones that are woven wire
there's carbon filters so the good thing
about these is you can use them for any
situation you want you buy this one
filter unit you could put a 5 micron a
2 these can fit any insert you want to put
in there right now you can see I have
two in here this is a 5 micron with a
different housing and this is the the 2
micron so I'm gonna change the 2
right now so the way I do with my system
is first I close the water coming in at
one end and the other so now this is
closed and now I don't have to but I
would open this so now there's still
water to the house
it's just bypassing all these filters so
now there's no water getting to any of
these valves I can open up this valve to
let off the pressure but just so you
know if you don't have this unit there's
a blow-off valve a red button on the
tops of these units what I like to do is
put a towel on it and push the button
and right now it just got soaked with
water so the pressure is now removed
from this filter and you can check that
if you don't have this I can open up
this valve and I can see that no water's
coming out next you get one of your big
wrenches and it's a little bit tricky
you have to remember it's lefty loosy
but you're looking from the top so it's
actually so you just slide your wrench
up on the filter cartridge and it's
secured to the wall with this big
bracket you don't just want to have it
hanging yeah oh and these can be really stuck on
there with all the pressure and the
filter and also you're gonna want plenty
of rags and I have a big bucket under
here to catch the water because this is
full of water right see house unscrew it
and water will start to pour out like
that also water is pouring out because it's
coming out of this whole system right
now and pull it down and now you can see
this character just pretty well spent
it's around rust all the way through
next pour that out and I'm not going to
clean this one because it looks pretty
clean if it's really bad sometimes rust
could get out here and I'll give this a
good wipe to get all this out but one
thing you have to be pay extra attention
to is this gasket up here at the top you
don't want it to I could see it's gotten
a little bit bigger than the fitting you
want to put a lot of grease on this and
good thing is I can still see grease on
it from the last time I did this and the
grease you want to use is something like
this it says food grade or non-toxic
sanitary
spend a couple hours since I just shot
that last clip and that was because I
was trying to get this o-ring to fit
back in this groove when I took it out I
noticed it was a little boat and I tried
some different things well I tried one
thing and that was to freeze it I put it
in the freezer for two hours and I came
back and it still doesn't fit so that's
why it's always good to have a bunch of
oring backups that also fit now I'm
gonna try to get this to fit I'm gonna
try to put it back up in here if it
doesn't fit tightly which it doesn't
right now it's kind of bowed out you can
see at the top there's a big bow in it
I'll use another oring another technique
they said you could use a heat gun or
try boiling it I'm not going to go
through all that trouble yet I'm gonna
try to get it in there um but first you
do have to use this lubricant too
because that oring needs to be a
floating oring it shouldn't just be
sitting in there it needs to freely move
and not get pinched when you seat it so
I like to use a lot of this uh lubricant
jelly put it down here so that it okay
so I put a quite a bit of the lubricant
on the whole ring then I take the new
filter and I put it down in the coverage
there's a little bump that sticks up
there if it's right in the center and
now you have to thread this back up in
there and making sure that this hole
lines up with the inlet hole on the
filter and I'm also gonna try to get
this o-ring to fit in there to be
pressed back into place if it doesn't
work on though because it will start
leaking pretty tight one little cinch
with this there we go
should be all installed back I'm gonna
turn the water on now
let's turn the bypass off slowly turn
the mainline back on we should see it go
up
yeah now we'll know if it leaks or not
okay the water is back on I opened up
the filter line and the outlet line I
don't see any leaks I don't feel any
leaks that should be it another thing is
if you don't have shut offs like I have
where I can shut the water off there is
you can turn this and you can go to
bypass you can bypass this and it will
not leak out so you just turn this blue
ring to bypass on here and water won't
come out also after you reinstall the
filter it's a good idea to push this red
button to let out any air because air is
trapped up here you can see water shoots
out so that gets any air out of the
system but overall I'm really happy with
these culligan filters are super sturdy
I haven't had an issue knocking on wood
again they're they're a little bit
plasticky the fittings plastic it takes
a big fitting the big 1 inch fitting but
overall they've held up great I can see
right in when the filters dirty I can
see if I have how the rust is if it's
ready to be changed but I'm really happy
with the system I have overall these are
much more convenient when they're dirty
you just open it up close it all that
stuff is washed off but overall these
handle a lot more through the filter and
I haven't had an issue with flow into
the house some people might say oh you
add a filter you're gonna reduce your
pressure you're gonna reduce your
gallons per minute I haven't had an
issue I'm using 3/4 inch pipe the
fittings are one-inch coming in so I
haven't had an issue with flow through
the system at all I did just a
non-scientific test trying to fill up a
tub or a bucket up in the upstairs I
haven't had an issue with the flow so
overall I'm really happy with it how
they how these filters have worked so
far so let me know what you think
via Blogger http://bit.ly/2XKyGII June 14, 2019 at 11:30AM
Swing - Make a Simple Wooden Swing
How to Make a Wood Swing
Surprisingly it isn't super easy to make a swing. Ya, for the most part it is, but what size to you make the seat itself? What is a good size for kids and adults?
I found that 18" long by 8" wide is a good size for everyone, kids and adults.
Also i doubled up on the plywood to make it extra thick.
The rope was rated at 350lb breaking strength. I tried burning the ends, but it didn't behave like the yellow plastic rope. After several coats of polyurethane it was ready to hang.
The holes are 3/4" and 1" from the corners.
All the materials ready to go. We picked a hardwood tree in our yard with a good branch. I used some felt on the top of the branch, just in case. I didn't want the rope rubbing on the bark and break. Also i used 1 continuous piece of rope. I didn't cut it at the top. It was tied, then crossed over to the other side and went down. For the knots on the bottom there's several options. I decided to loop it through the holes and tie it on itself.
You can see there are 2 knots per rope. I had issues with the swing slipping down because the rope was very slippery.
But overall it's worked great.
Transcript from Video:
So earlier this year my son and I
wanted to build a swing in the yard and
we had the same questions most people
have one what size to cut the board what
would you use what rope to get and what
tree to pick so here's the swing we made
and a good size I found is 18 by 8 you
could go a little wider but 18 by 8
seems to work an adult can sit on it a
kid can sit on it everybody is able to
fit on this side so an inch and a half
and cut the holes 3/4 inch falls and I
rounded the edges so the rope won't have
any pinch points and good morning so the
ropes holding up nicely on the rounded
edges now as far as wood to use I had a
ton of scrap wood I could have done two
options one is I could have used a piece
of two by eight or two by ten pieing
and that's a soft wood but it's pretty
thick and I couldn't just use that cut
it to length drilled a couple of halls
been done but what I decided to do was
make it a little bit thicker and I glued
together two pieces of plywood and it
made it about an inch and a half thick
plenty strong
there's no bend at all Ryan you know a
piece of pine would have been fine too I
think even one piece of reasonably good
plywood would have worked too but I
decided to double up and glue it
together another option would have been
if you don't want it thick the whole way
we could just put a strip of wood right
under where the Rope meets and that
would strengthen it at the end but I
decided to just make the whole thing
nice and wide now as far as rope I just
went on Amazon and bought some 3
breaking strength rope it's 716 inch and
it's braided it's worked fine
and you could use wood glue or you could
even use liquid nails construction
adhesive since it's going to be outside
and speaking of being outside you need
to treat this I put five coats of
polyurethane on this
and I could even see that it's getting a
little bit worn on the top but you're
gonna definitely need something to
protect it from the rain and the snow so
five coats of polyurethane or something
else that's gonna really seal it and
keep it protected while it's outside or
else it's gonna work as far as the knots
that you can see I came down from the
tree I looped it under the swing and
then I tied knots here and here you want
nuts that aren't gonna slide down so I
did a couple of hitches where I wrapped
around the rope and then I brought it up
to here and I actually used some tape
and some rope to secure it so it
wouldn't slide down I originally wanted
to do that technique we can braid the
rope inside the the rope so it cinches
on itself but I didn't have the tool and
this really wasn't good enough rope to
do that now as far as how to tied the
knots up at the top of the tree there's
a couple different things you can do and
I actually recorded a video in that back
when I tied it in the spring alright
Here I am up on top of the tree and I
wanted to point out the knots I used
this is the first night I tied and they
did a round turn and two half hitches
and the theory was on it that the Rope
coming down is basically going straight
up and over the Rope wrapping around is
this one here so there's no real pinch
points in this rope I'm not kicking it
or bending it anywhere where it's gonna
be pulling and at a right angle it's
coming straight down this rope wrapped
around twice and then it comes over to
this side where I have it wrapped around
twice again and I just wrapped it
through the line so as it pulls pull
it's tightening on itself and again
there's no pinch points in the rope the
force coming down
I use two carpet padding on the top just
so if it does rub or where hopefully it
doesn't it won't be rubbing on the tree
and rub through the rope but that was
the theory I had on no pinch points on
the knot sometimes some people said do a
bowline or something like that I needed
it to be tight to the tree which a
bowline wouldn't really do it I would
say sag down that works if you have an
eyelet through the tree or something
like that
I want it tight to the branch and these
are both tight to the branch
now as far as what trees to use we have
a lot of trees on our property but not a
lot of good trees for swings we have
pine trees which don't work and some big
cottonwoods and now cottonwoods are soft
wood and ideally you don't want to use a
soft wood because those branches can
just snap and break I would much rather
trust an oak or maple over a cottonwood
so we had to go with this one I think
it's a type of locust the seat that
leaves are nice and small like a honey
locust and it seemed like a really
strong tree and we have a good branch
sticking out at the top and the last
little thing I did was I took a wood
burner and I burned my son's name on the
front of the swing and the year on the
back just I think the personalized a
little bit more hopefully it stays here
for a bunch of years
via Blogger http://bit.ly/2Re6prC June 14, 2019 at 10:38AM |